Stained Glass Basics

Stained Glass Basics

Some Basic tools and tips for working...

Breaking Pliers have a smooth, flat jaw used for breaking long thin pieces of glass. To use, hold the glass firmly close to one side of the score line, then with the other hand and pliers, at the opposite side of the score line, use a downward, bending motion to separate the glass. Breaking Pliers have a smooth, flat jaw used for breaking long, thin pieces of glass. They allow you to reach into a piece of glass and hold it firmly at the score line without chipping the edge of the glass. If you don't get a nice clean break or the glass is chipping and shattering, you may be squeezing the pliers too hard.

Cement or Grouting Brush is used after whiting has been applied. The brush should be used to remove excess whiting and grout, as well as to polish the surface of the glass. Pressure can be used, but not too much-then you run the risk of cracking your work.

Fid or Burnishing Tool Slide the tapered end into lead or metal came to widen the opening. Use for burnishing copper foil. Fits most any hand comfortably. Use the pointed end to work excess cement from around lead or metal channels when glazing. Use the pointed end to clean excess dried wax from copper foiled projects.

Flux Creates a uniform solder bead that stays put and does not corrode copper foil or discolor lead.

Glastar Ringstar Running Pliers These running pliers have a pressure system. Just look through the window to accurately position the Ringstar over the score line. The pliers can be positioned from any direction-even to working full circles.

Glazing Hammer One head is a hard plastic for use on the horseshoe nails while the other head is a hard rubber used for tapping glass into place. Specifically designed for stained glass crafters.

Grinders are very useful in softening sharp edges of a glass piece, as well as for making slight adjustments to pieces to make them fit together perfectly.

Grozier Pliers Breaker/Groziers have one curved jaw and one flat jaw, both with finely serrated edges. They are dual purpose pliers used for breaking out scores and grozing flares from the edge of glass. To break out a score, hold the glass firmly near the score line with the pliers, flat jaw up. Use your other hand to hold the other half of the glass near the score line. Use a downward, rotating motion to break the score. To groze, hold the pliers curved side up, and use a rolling motion to gently scrape the glass edge against the serrated teeth. Use the tips in a chewing motion to remove small sections of glass or nibble out deep inside curves.

Horseshoe nails Flatsided to hold lead in place. Use them to hold glass packed while it is still unsoldered.

Lead Came Lead Strips, or "Came", the traditional material used in stained glass window construction. The cross sections shown are the most commonly used sizes. The fractional dimension indicates the size across the face, or exposed surface. All the lead channels will accomodate standard thickness stained glass.

Lead Nippers They might look like ordinary wire cutters, but the back is ground flat to allow you to cut lead came with a flat finish for both straight and angled cuts.

Pattern Shears Cutting your pattern apart with these kind of shears removes just the right amount of pattern to allow for copper foil, lead or mosaics. Projects fit together properly without "growing".
- Some Tips: Make two copies of your pattern and keep the original for future projects. Number the pattern pieces on both copies. Add streak direction, glass color and other helpful notes. Cut one copy apart for pattern pieces and use the other for layout and assembly. In cutting apart one of the patterns, special three-bladed scissors can be used to prevent the project from growing in size. Pattern shears have three blades that automatically remove the rightamount of the pattern to allow for copper foil or lead came. This allows your glass pieces to fit together properly.

Running Pliers Solid steel running pliers have plastic coated jaws to prevent chipping of glass.. The perfect for making to difficult runs or long scores.

Soldering Tips:
-Remember, safety is more important than anything else.
- Always use a soldering iron stand or a very secure holder. Why risk burning the surface you are working on-or, worse yet your house down?
- Always solder in a well ventilated area.
- Never eat, drink or smoke while working with stained glass. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water before doing anything else.
solder - Keep your work room off limits to children.
- Never leave your soldering iron plugged in when not in use or unattended.
- Never override the grounding system on your soldering iron (or any other tool).
- After each soldering session, unscrew the iron tip with pliers. It's not necessary to remove it, but loosening the nut or screw will keep it from fusing to the barrel of the iron.
- If you use an iron control, mark the spot that seems ideal with a permanent marker for quick reference.
- If your solder spits and sputters when you are soldering, you may be using too much flux.
- To keep from applying too much flux, trim the bristles of your flux brush to about 1/4".
- For neat solder seams, avoid stopping or starting the solder line at a joint.
- Pre-fill large gaps with solder before trying to run the final solder bead.

Whiting is a fine powder used to absorb and dry excess putty when weather proofing leaded windows. Can also be used dry as a glass polish.

Zinc Came is much stronger and more rigid than lead came. It may be used with, or in addition to lead came, when you need to make a window structurally very stable. It is an especially good border material, but the 'H' channels can be used for internal bracing as well.

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